02 Category
Detailing
Paint Correction
Correction cuts the haze, swirls, and scratches out of the clear coat, then refines what is left. The stage is chosen from the paint, not from a package name. Deeper work takes more time and removes more clear, so we stop where the panel is clean and still safe.
Stage 1 – Single Step
One polishing step for light swirls and a dull finish. A single pad and polish refine the clear and bring the gloss back without chasing deep marks. The right stage for a well-kept car that needs a reset, not a rebuild of the paint.
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Stage 2 – Two Step
A cutting pass takes out the heavier swirls and light scratches. A second pass cleans the haze that cut left behind. This is the stage most daily cars need after machine washes and years of road film. The gloss comes back even, not patchy.
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Stage 3 – Multi Stage
For neglected or show paint. We cut, refine, and finish in separate passes so deep marks come out and the last step leaves a wet, even gloss. It removes the most clear coat, so the paint is measured before we commit to the work.
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Interior Detailing
Interior work is a full clean of the cabin, not a wipe of the dash. Dirt is pulled out of the material, then only the surfaces that should be dressed get a finish. The cabin should look kept, not coated in shine.
Deep Interior Cleaning
Seats, carpets, and crevices are extracted, not just vacuumed. Sand, spills, and set-in grime come out of the fibres and the leather grain. The cabin should smell like the car again. We work the seams, the rails, and the backs of the seats.
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Leather Treatment
Leather is cleaned in the grain, then fed with a conditioner that stays matte. Dye transfer, body oils, and dry patches are the job. The hide is left soft, not plastic. We do not lay a gloss that cracks and collects dust by the next week.
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Dashboard & Trim
The dash, console, and door cards are cleaned of film, dust, and old dressing. Matte plastics stay matte. The texture is restored instead of left with a greasy shine that grabs the next layer of dust. Screens and piano black are wiped without swirl.
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AC Sanitization
The vents and the evaporator path are treated so the cold air stops carrying a stale or damp smell. This is an odor and bacteria clean, not a fragrance sprayed into the cabin. You should get air that smells like nothing when the fan comes on.
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Headliner Cleaning
The roof lining is cleaned so the fabric does not sag or watermark. Nicotine, dust, and spots are lifted without soaking the foam behind the cloth. It is a slow job. A heavy hand stains the headliner worse than the dirt we came to remove.
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Exterior Wash
The wash is built so the paint is cleaned without new marks going into it. Foam first, contact only where it is still needed, then the bonded dirt a shampoo will not shift. Rinse water leaves the panel before a towel does.
Snow Foam Wash
A thick pre-wash foam sits on the panels and loosens the loose dirt before a mitt touches the paint. Most of the grit should leave in the rinse. That is what keeps the wash from becoming a scratch. Contact comes only after the foam has done its work.
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Contact Wash
A two-bucket hand wash for the dirt the foam left behind. Clean mitts, straight lines, and a rinse that does not drag grit back across the clear. This is the only contact step, and it happens after the pre-wash, not instead of it.
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Iron Removal
Brake dust and rail dust bond to the paint and wheels as small orange spots. A chemical remover dissolves the iron so we are not scrubbing metal into the clear. The panel is rinsed clean before clay, polish, or film. The purple reaction is the metal leaving.
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Tar Removal
Tar, sap, and road adhesive sit on the paint and will not move with shampoo. A solvent lifts them so the wash does not smear them down the panel. The spots come off. The clear stays. We treat the lower doors and the rear bumper, where the road throws it.
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Clay Bar
Clay shears off the bonded grit that still feels rough after the wash and the chemicals. The paint should feel like glass before any polish or coating. We clay only as hard as the contamination needs. Over-claying is just another way to mark the clear.
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Undercarriage Wash
The underside, wheel arches, and lower sills are rinsed of salt, mud, and road film. It is the part nobody photographs and the part that rusts first. A proper wash includes it. We do not leave the arches packed with the dirt the body wash just moved.
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Wheel & Tyre Care
Wheels take the brake dust. Tyres take the dressing. The metal is cleaned first, then the rubber is finished so it looks dressed without flinging product onto the paint on the way out of the bay.
Alloy Wheel Cleaning
Faces and barrels are cleaned of brake dust, including the lug holes and the inner barrel. Iron remover does the chemical work so dust is not ground into the finish. The wheel should look bare-metal clean before any seal goes on.
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Tyre Dressing
A water-based dressing on the sidewall only. Satin, not a wet gloss that slings onto the quarter panel on the first drive. The lettering stays sharp and the rubber looks new, not oily. The tread is left dry so the dressing never reaches the road.
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Trim Restoration
Faded plastic on mirrors, arches, and window surrounds is cleaned, then restored. The black comes back even and stays matte. We do not use a grease that washes off in the next rain and streaks the paint below it.
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Headlight Restoration
Yellow, cloudy lenses are oxidation in the plastic, not dirt on the surface. We cut that layer back and seal what is left so the lamp stays clear and the beam stays white.
Oxidation Removal
The dead, yellowed surface is sanded and compounded off until the lens is optically clear again. Heavy haze and pitting need more than a wipe-on kit. The beam should look white, not amber, before we call this step done.
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Refinement & Sealing
After the cut, the lens is refined so it is not left hazy, then sealed against the UV that yellowed it. Without the seal, the oxidation is back within a season. This is the step that makes the restore last past the first month in the sun.
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